Killer Cali

We crossed the border into California not long after leaving Gold Beach, OR. It's not somewhere that I'd been particularly excited about visiting - I guess I assumed it would feel too much like Perth, too beachy, too familiar. But when we drove past the 'Welcome to California' sign it was a momentous moment - we had entered one of the most ubiquitous places in the world, and our stereo was blasting Californication by the Red Hot Chilli Peppers. Today we would transfer from the 101 to the start of California State Route 1, the parts of which are known as the Shoreline Highway, Cabrillo Highway and, most famously, the Pacific Coast Highway. We would travel down it until we reached Los Angeles.

The 1 begins just outside of a small town called Leggett. There we drove into a tree. Then we drove out the other side. I think I've already mentioned just how many things in America are drive-through - apparently trees are among them.

The Chandelier Tree

I'd love to show you a more complete photo, but it took me five frames to get from the bottom of the tree to the top. This Giant Sequoia (also known as California Redwood) is 315ft (96m) high, has a diameter of 21ft (6.4m) and is up to 2400 years old. Wow. We drove through a few Redwood forests down the coast - these magnificent trees make you feel so small and insignificant, especially in their abundance.

To get to the coast from Leggett the 1 took us through Redwood-covered mountains and the road seemed perilously high and winding. It was a good thing Daniel couldn't see through the trees - I could, and it didn't help that I was on the outer edge of the road. No photos from that section, for I was hanging on for dear life. It was nice to finally hit the coast again, although it wasn't a much easier drive thereafter. Our first impression of the 1 was that it's hard work. The scenery is spectacular, but it's tough driving - small, winding roads, steep gradients and hairpin turns.

Also in abundance along the coast is visible marine life. It was a still, clear day and we kept spotting water spurts out in the ocean. They were, of course, whales. Apparently they migrate up and down the coastline, mainly humpbacks and blues at this time of year. We stopped to watch one for a bit - oh how I wish we had a monster telephoto lens. Alas, ours had to do.

Whale

We'd booked accmodation in a small coastal town called Mendocino. Only 900 people live there, but it's on a headland and such a beautiful spot. It was founded in 1850 and many of the town's buildings are Victorian. It's a popular spot for weekending from the Bay Area, and it also felt like a hippie wonderland. We stayed here:

It's called the Didjeridoo Dreamtime Inn and Meditation Center. I didn't just make that up, but now you understand why we had to stay there. It's run by Charles, his wife Mary and his business partner Miranda. They're lovely, interesting people. Charles makes didjeridoos and Miranda plays them, very well - she played for us over a home-cooked, organic breakfast one morning. I didn't have the heart to point out to her that in Aboriginal culture women don't touch, let alone play, didjeridoos, as it's bad luck to do so and they supposedly make women infertile. We were upgraded upon arrival (no doubt for being Australian - that blew Charles's mind) and our room was gorgeous. Conversation over breakfast was great - we had a fascinating chat with Charles about the state of America, environmental issues and its healthcare system (or lack thereof). If you ever find yourself in Mendocino, I can't recommend it enough.